Koh Phangan, Thailand
By Mamma Kim
Music, Magic & Memories
A little lakeside restaurant and creative space on the shores of Laem Son Lake, Sri Thanu — and the nights we’ll never forget.
Relive the magicThe place
Hemmingway’s sat on the picturesque Laem Son Lake in Sri Thanu, just next to the entrance to Zen Beach, on the island of Koh Phangan. It was Mamma Kim’s place — part restaurant, part social hub, part stage — built around one simple idea: that we are made of what we consume, and eating well should feel like a celebration.
The kitchen served everyone — vegan, vegetarian, pescatarian and omnivore alike — and told you precisely what was in every dish, like having a personal nutritionist in an easily digestible form. The drinks had names as playful as the place: a Cosmic Carrot, a Cheeky Ginger, a Thairish Coffee for the brave.
But food was only half of it. Digital nomads unleashed their creativity by the water; writers, teachers and musicians gathered in the secluded Creative Cave; mindfulness circles met on the Upper Deck overlooking the lake. And some evenings, the finest musicians and artists on the island would turn dinner into a night nobody wanted to end.
Those are the nights this little site is for.
The memories
Catch up on the fun and relive the magic — 44 films from 14 unforgettable nights at Hemmingway’s, straight from our YouTube channel. Tap any film to play it right here.
The night that let the genie out of the bottle. Before we'd even properly opened, running on the shakiest of electricity, the island's Latino community came together to celebrate an important trip around the sun for one of our favourite islanders. Our very first collaboration with the Panganeros, an incredible display of Capoeira to live music, and the first energetic night of magic for which Hemmingway's became famous.
Christmas 2019, and Devon introduces the party to the world of virtual reality. How no-one ended up in the lake is anyone's guess!
Not everything magical at Hemmingway's was on the stage — or on the menu. Our local monitor lizards, this one around two metres, made regular swim-pasts to check the place was being kept up to standard. A joy to behold while building a better you.
The Painted with Tea jazz trio's first time at Hemmingway's, and a spectacular evening by the water — one that sent 1,500 baht to PACS, the island's animal welfare charity. The lake really was the place to be to nourish your mind, body and soul.
Fiesta Latina con Panganeros! The dance floor full from the first song, our staff dancing every bit as hard as the guests. Many relationships — and a couple of marriages — were kindled at Hemmingway's, and nights like this one are why.
Our favourite heart, funk, folk duo playing their inaugural Hemmingway's gig. Regulars on the European festival circuit, we were super blessed to have them popping in from time to time while they were stranded on our beautiful island by Covid-19.
We were honoured to be chosen as the venue where Phanganers could celebrate the birthday of island jazz, singing coach and choir leader Victoria Alekseeva. What a night! Some of our favourite people came to share the love and contribute to the magic.
An afternoon of rehearsals rolling into an evening of island jazz, featuring the wonderful Nong Jazz on vocals.
Two more acts who lit the place up that January — Delores Reposte, and the irrepressible KickBan.
The Jazz Project came back for more — including a beautiful take on "The Nearness of You" — and the house was full of friends.
Open-mic night on Valentine's Day — Kevin Gray celebrating his birthday at the mic (happy birthday, Kevin!), and Stephen Donnelly & friends closing with Purple Rain.
A leap-day treat — Bohawi playing live on the lake.
More open-mic magic as the spring came around — ending, as the best nights did, with everybody singing.
Panganeros — playing their own song "Koh Phangan" — joined by Peyote across two February nights.
The flavours
A few favourites from the counter, exactly as they appeared on the old menu — or browse the full menu as it was (PDF).
Cosmic Carrot
Cheeky Ginger
Incredible Hulk
Dahlicious
Espresso Martini
Heavenly Hibiscus
Positively Pumpkin
Thairish Coffee
Very Berry